Picot (p): ch 3, sl st into sc (NOTE: you will need this method, since the ch-3 loop will give you more room to maneuver when it comes to joining motifs! If another method is more comfortable for you, so be it, but please keep this in mind)
Ch 12, join w/ sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 24 dc into ring, join to top of ch-3.
Rnd 2: Ch 8, *sk next dc, tr in next dc, ch 4; rep from * around, sl st into 4th ch of ch-8.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *(3 sc, p) twice into ch-4 sp, (5 sc, p) in next ch-4 sp, 3 sc in next ch-4 sp, ch 8, turn. Sl st into 3rd sc in previous 5-sc group, ch 1, turn. Into ch-8 sp work (3 sc, p, 4 sc, p, 4 sc, p, 3 sc). Working back into the ch-4 sp prior to the ch-8, work 3 more sc, p; rep from * around, join w/ sl st into 1st sc.
Finish off, weave in end. (Note: It’s best that you weave in now, so that you don’t get frustrated later while only weaving in ends. Trust me, k? ) 😀
Motif 2 and subsequent motifs:
Complete motif through round 2, and begin round 3. There are 7 picots (p) on each side. Once you reach a p in the pattern of round 3, ch 1, sl st into the corresponding p on the 1st motif, ch 1, sl st into sc of 2nd motif, then continue sc pattern, not joining the p on either side of the center ps of the motifs. There should be 5 joints per side of each motif, including the corners. On corners, there will be 4 motifs joined together and there will appear to be a cross shape in the join. Do not join the ps on either side of the center picot of the sides: this will make the cross shape more evident, as well as making the “wheels” rounder (if the ps are joined, the wheels become more like square shapes).
For a scarf, work 2 motifs by however long you would like the scarf. For a stole, work 4-6 motifs by 24, depending on how long you would like it. For a square shawl, work as many motifs as you would like so that the hypotenuse (the long part of the triangle, which would be the square folded) reaches from fingertip to fingertip when your arms are outstretched, or work them into a triangle on the bias, which would give you a pointed edge along the hypotenuse.
Border: This border is worked sideways, or outward from the motifs, making a fringe of “leaves” surrounding the wheels. A lot of Cluny patterns change direction while being worked, so please do not be intimidated by the amount of turning in Row 2. It seems like a lot of work, but it is well worth it in the end.
(NOTE: If making a stole, work this border on the narrower ends of the piece. If making a square shawl, begin on any side. If working the triangle on a bias, begin on a side. If making a triangle with a straight hypotenuse, work along the hypotenuse, or you may choose to leave off the border.
Join yarn to center p of any corner on outer edge of shawl, ch 20. Turn work so shawl is on your left, and you are working toward it.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, (hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) into next 8 ch—beginning leaf completed. (Sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in next 9 ch—full leaf completed, sc in next ch, sl st into p of shawl.
Row 2: Turn work so shawl is on your right. Ch 4, sl st into next picot of shawl, ch 12. Sl st in middle of scs between the 2 leaves just made, ch 1, turn–shawl will be on your left. 4 sc over ch-12 sp (do not work into the chain; you will want the sts to slide down toward the leaves below)—stem made, ch 10, work beg leaf over next 10 ch, push down the scs on ch-12 sp previously made, then work full leaf over 10 ch. Sc into last ch.
Repeat Row 2 as needed.
Ch 5, join to make a ring.
Rnd 1: Work 18 sc into ring. Join w/ sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *ch 2, sk 2 sc, sc in next sc. Rep from * around, join w/ sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, *(sc, 2 dc, sc) in ch-2 sp. Rep from * around, join w/ sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, turn. *Fbsc around sc of rnd 2, ch 3; rep from * around, join w/ sl st to 1st fpsc.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, turn. (Sc, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, sc) in next 4 ch-3 sps, *in next ch-3 sp work [(sc, 2 dc), sl st into tip of leaf, (2 dc, sc)]; rep from * once more, making a sl st into next leaf on the fringe. You may also use the ch-sps on the side petals to join to the preceding rose so the whole border + edging is solid, instead of a fringe. This is all a matter of preference, of course, and not definitive.
Rep these 5 rounds as necessary.
Variation: On the roses, feel free to add beads on the 5th round in the ch-1 sps.